Technical File

Contemporary Victorian Hairstyles; Inspired By American Horror Story

In our last technical class Lottie showed us three very different but simple hairstyles to create with curls. For curling you can use tongs or rollers, the technique (brickwork) is the same no matter what you use. Brickwork is a technique of curling when you place the curls or rollers as if you were building a brick wall.

You will need:

Curling tongs

Pins

First we created a side parting with the pintail comb, make sure the line is nice and neat. Take the first section, a don't make it too wide or too deep, the tong has to sit nicely on the section - if it doesn't, do it again. Pull the hair back slightly to create a lift in your curl, use your pintail comb to create tight curls. Pin each curl as you are going along. Make three curls on one and two curls on the other side. Do the same thing on the crown of the head with a horizontal curl and two on each side - this creates brickwork. The rest of the hair was curled with vertical (spiral) curls. To make sure the hair didn't sit on the face when creating our hairstyles later we curled the sides inwards, pulling the hair back again, to create a lift. When the curls cool off, take the pins out and start styling.

Curling the front

Front curls pinned

Brickwork

Curling the sides

Taking the pins out at the back

Hairstyle no.1

This hairstyle was inspired by the maid in American Horror Story. Pin the five curls (three on one and two on the other side) to get a wavy look. Then twist the rest of the hair into a low bun and pin it. Make the back nice and smooth.

Front

Side

Back

Hairstyle no.2

Brush the curls out with a big brush. Use your hand as a tool, brush the sections over and under. Create a sleek and smooth look. You can use a shine spray or a bit of wax. This hairstyle is good for red or blond hair as it picks up light nicely.

side

Hairstyle no.3

Ask your model to put their head upside down and shake their head. The curls that we've previously brushed out will bounce back and will create a big and voluminous hairstyle.

Front

Side

Creating light scaring using molds

You can make mould any shape you want
Use powder to take the mold out easier
Prosaide is used to stick all prostetic pieces - you need a special remover to take it off, Proclean
You have to put Prosaide on the piece you want to stick onto the skin as well as on the skin - you don't need a lot of product
You have to let it go clear and tacky before sticking or the prostetic piece will slide off
Blend the edges of gelatine with Witch Hazel and baby buds
You can use a Fixer spray to fix the colours before adding liquids
Use a baby bud to put the Prosaide all over the prostetic piece and the skin
Don't rub the Witch Hazel against the prostetic piece, go against it and stowly try to move it and stoke it and it will melt
Take the photos along the way to see what it looks like on camera
Powder before colouring - it is better to first put the colour where the wound is and then colour around it
You can mix the colour with a bit of moisturiser to make it a bit more clear
Add some fake blood, glycerine or vaseline and pus to make it look more realistic

Before blending the edges

After blending the edges

Colouring the powdered wound

Adding fake blood

Adding blood

Having another go on the same wound

Adding pus

Adding blood

Final look

Dark eyes and lips

Eyes

Put powder under the eyes before starting - that way you can easily get rid of any excess product that falls
Eye primer helps the product to stay longer
Start with the lighter shade rather than the dark shade
For a basic smokey eye you will need 3 shades - one as a base, lighter shade for the inner corner of the eye and darker shade for the crease
If you are creating a very dark make up look it is better to do the eyes before applying the foundation
You can build up the product as you want, depending on how dark and smokey you want the make up to be
Cream shadows are good to use as a base
If you are not using a cream shadow as a base apply some translucent powder all over the lid - shadows will blend easier that way
It is important to blend the colours - fluffy brushes are best for blending

Products used:

Fennel, Caraway and Black Pepper by Kryolan
Black Mascara by Benefit

Lips

To prep the lips apply Carmex of 8 Hour Cream
Use a lip liner to line the lips when creating a dark lip
Angled brush is good for lipstick application
Start from the corners and work to the middle
Powder between the layers - it helps the product stay on the lips longer
Powder if you want a matte effect
Apply gloss in the middle of the lips if you want a glossy effect

Products used:

LC010 - Lip Rouge Mini Palette LMP101 by Kryolan

Name: Rachel

Age: 19

Skin Type: Oily

Skin Tone: Porcelin White

Allergies: /

Creating Estella

Products used:

Cheeks: Annatto by Kryolan

Highlighter: Albatros by Nars

Eyes: White Pepper + Caraway by Kryolan

Eyebrows: Caraway + Black Pepper by Kryolan

Lips: LC001 by Kryolan

Curling tongs
Pins and a hair tie
Hair Ornament
Hairspray

Notes

Face Chart

Hair Chart

Front

Side

Back

(created on March 10th 2015)

Name: Rachel

Age: 19

Skin Type: Oily

Skin Tone: Porcelin White

Allergies: /

Hair Type: wavy, black - dyed, slightly damaged

Lenght: medium/long

Creating Miss Havisham

Products used:

Foundation: Alabaster + Illamasqua White Base
Eyebrows: Caraway + Black Pepper by Kryolan
Wrinkles: Yellow (509), Red (079) + Blue (BL. 10) = Brown + White 070 / Black 071
Under eye circles: Purple (Purple/Lila) Supracolor
Lips: Alabaster + Illamasqua white, Caraway (outer corners)
Powder: Illamasqua Transluscent Powder
Contouring: Caraway by Kryolan

Curling tongs
Pins and a hair tie
Baby Powder
Hairspray

Notes

Face Chart

Hair Charts

First Assesment

Final look - front

Side

Close up

Back

Complete final look

(created on Feb 19th 2015)

Second Assessment

Final look - front

Side

Close up

Back

Complete final look

(created on March 5th 2015)

Name: Rachel

Age: 19

Skin Type: Oily

Skin Tone: Porcelin White

Allergies: /

Hair Type: wavy, black - dyed, slightly damaged

Lenght: medium/long

Burns

Gelatine or Collodion is a good alternative to latex if your model is allergic to latex
It can come in a block, in a bottle or you can get gelatine granules that you can buy in the super market
Don't mix block gelatine with water
When you heat up the block, the gelatine you don't end up using need to be thrown away, but the one in the bottle is reusable
You can get different colours of gelatine (clear, light skin, dark skin etc.)
You can colour it with Supracolor or mix with Aqacolour
You can't mix latex, gleatine and Collodion but you can use them on top of eachother
You can rip a layer of tissue and add it to the burn
Look into the mirror as you are creating the burn
Put gelatine into a microwavable bowl (if you are using gelatine in the bottle put some water into the bowl first)
The less gelatine you want to melt, the less time you heat it - test it every 15 seconds
Be careful because it can get HOT
If you want to add glitter, do it after you heat the gelatine or you will blow up the microwave
Use a spatula to apply it onto the skin
Avoid hard edges
You can put it right up to the eye
Pick it with the spatula and a pin to shape your burn
Always powder on top when the gelatine gets tacky
You can use a cool hairdryer
You can melt the edges with warm water and a baby bud
Colour the burn with a fine pointy brush to create a 3D effect - build up the colour
Use your fingers to blend the colours
Add foundation if needed and add some more colour on top to make it look more realistic
Shine makes the burn look deeper - add vaseline, glycerine or pus